The Dior Autumn/Winter 2025 collection unfolds as a love letter to the free-spirited Orlando, who races through the labyrinth of self-discovery. For Maria Grazia Chiuri, the foundation of this process is built upon the endless possibilities of the white shirt.
A universal staple transcending style, culture, and gender, the white shirt emerges as the collection’s core theme. Within the French Maison’s sartorial lexicon, it is the founding element of an outfit that dismantles the idea of gendered clothes—an idea inherited from Dior’s former Artistic Director, Gianfranco Ferré, who is also known widely as the “architect of fashion”.
This was not Chiuri’s only tribute. The collection went through its archive and welcomed the return of John Galliano’s “J’Adore Dior” T-shirt, immortalised by its appearance in the hit franchise, Sex and the City. As a part of Carrie Bradshaw extensive wardrobe, the slogan tee was later dubbed as the “Carrie tee”, making it a significant noughties fashion moment in the silver screen.
That said, the lineup is also a dialogue between the now and then—a conversation that transcends not just time but generations. French savoir-faire is reimagined through the lens of an Elizabethan time traveller. The ruffs, detachable frilled collars, tail coats and the stomachers on these pieces call to mind the characters in Virginia Woolf’s renowned Orlando. The designer cited the literary work as one of the inspirations, alongside the visionary adaptation by director and playwright, Robert Wilson, featuring French actress Isabelle Huppert.
As one of fashion’s few female creative directors around, Chiuri’s vision is particularly apt, aligning with Orlando‘s satirical approach in questioning gender roles and fluid identity. A clever creative decision the designer made was through the dematerialised crinolines and corsets—reengineered for function over tormenting tradition to fit the rigid beauty standards of the time. Baroque pearls, too, are contrasted with utilitarian raincoats and knee boots, placing timeless elegance and practicality in the same frame.
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