As Paris Couture Week comes to a close, we can’t help but look back at all of the looks and creativity that were put on display for all to admire. More specifically, the return of Arab designers showcasing their couture creations, all of which left us in awe. Every sliver of thread and bead embroidered had a story to tell – a story of enchantment and a story of traditions.
This year, we particularly saw a blend of innovation and a tribute to old-school flair for the dramatics on the runway. With countless talented designers putting forward their best work, arguably, this season could be hard to top. From a variety of voluminous and sleek silhouettes to glistening textures and colours, these Arab designers made sure to captivate every onlooker and attendee in sight.
With that, GRAZIA brings to you all the Arab designers that headlined the Paris Couture Week.
Time and time again, Ashi Studio has proved to be the epitome of couture and has even been donned by the likes of famous celebrities such as Beyoncé. He returns to the runway to prove once again why his creations summon a sense of exquisiteness on and off the runway.
As models ramped up to walk the runway, each wore an ensemble that had the audience on the edge of their seats, patiently waiting for the next big revelation. Each look alone stood as a momentous work of art waiting to be admired and worn. The theme of his collection was “Ink Sculptures”, perhaps an ode to the designer’s delicate penmanship of his avant garde installations in sartorial form. His Spring/Summer ’24 collection featured many looks that had voluminous structures, bold hues and sleek silhouettes, a little something for every onlooker to revel in.
Lebanese designer Georges Hobeika presented his Spring/Summer 2024 collection at the Paris Couture Week with a burst of colours. With every colour on the spectrum in sight, this collection was stated as a love letter to the Arab world. The designs featured intricate details that resembled traditional works of tapestry and rugs gracing the feminine figure.
Each look donned showcased the meticulous craftsmanship, thought and hours of handwork for all to see. With a shimmering element adopted into every garment, even the sleekest look radiated with a level of opulence and glamour only Georges Hobeika can pull off. Models walked the runway with voluminous slicked hair and a dramatic eye look that the couturier described as “an ode to the glamorous attitude of Beirut in the 1960s”.
Master of couture and artistry, Elie Saab returned to the Parisian runway with a whimsical collection that tells tales of fine dressmaking. His signature style is reflected through and through in pastel hues and intricate embroidery displayed in this season’s Paris Couture Week.
The theme followed a magical depiction of a ‘Desert Rose’ that evoked a sense of beauty even in the arid. Lavish textures, streamlined silhouettes and sultry pastel hues paint a picture of an ethereal nature unknown to the ordinary. The show donned a red linear décor that stood in contrast to the astounding tailored artistry. With shades of blush pink chiffons and lilac blue crepes, the Maison provided the expected with the unexpected through his Spring/Summer collection.
What is the golden ratio? A set of numbers used to describe the rationality of an object or features by Greek mathematicians or in Tony Ward’s case perfectly incorporating symmetrical and geometrical aspects derived from the bountiful nature onto his couture fabrications. Where each wave, leaf and organism serves as an inspiration.
He masterfully translated his ideas in the form of Haute Couture, through intricacies and fine work that had left the audience breathless. Every tiny detail and hue obtained from nature is converted into the perfect golden ratio to create these stunning designs. His collections feature a range of bright-toned designs that include elements of symmetrical finesse – finding perfection in the imperfect. His designs act as the perfect poetic ode to our ever-giving environment.
RAMI AL ALI
In the picturesque setting of a draped runway, Syrian designer Rami Al Ali presented his Spring/Summer ’24 couture collection. While the Maison’s signature style of streamlined shapes and soft hues graces the runway, he managed to surprise the audience by presenting newer and bolder looks by adding volume and necessary flair.
Stronger silhouettes and dramatic drapes come into play as models walk past the attendees with cinched waist gowns and fringe-filled dresses. His collection is reminiscent of the Bedouin heritage of the Arab world. He successfully bridged the gap by projecting Western elements with Arabian elements into his artistic pieces. Set to revolutionise and make a mark, Rami Al Ali is a pioneer in the design realm.
MAISON SARA CHRAIBI
Moroccan designer Sara Chraibi brought earthy elements onto the runway with her latest collection at Paris Couture Week. La Terra, which translates to the earth, showcases dark shades of brown and burgundy as a means to depict her inspiration. Sara’s collection featured an effortless distinction that appealed and called to the onlooker. A gentle nod to her Moroccan roots is visible through subtle facets present in her designs. Models adorn a stylishly prominent updo that compliments each outfit with a sense of elegance and conceptuality.
Zuhair Murad undoubtedly never fails to deliver an ethereal show and continued to do so for his latest collection presented in Paris. His designs painted an otherworldly presence that has descended upon Earth. With flashy crystals and airy chiffons, he embodies the definition of couture through his latest collection.
He celebrates a Phoenician heritage through his collection. An enchanting civilisation that portrays their love for the sea is showcased through this incredible show where each floor-grazing and mini dress, is dripped in the beads that form glittering tassels. An evident display of craftsmanship that is worthy of an applaudable reaction.
This story first appeared on GRAZIA Middle East.