Giorgio Armani Takes Italian Elegance To An Intimate Level 

A fashion tale that happens in the powder room.

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Self-care and beauty rituals have become such an integral part of our routine. What’s behind the closed doors of our boudoir, however, is more than just compact powder. It’s precisely the intimacy of the act of maquillage that inspired the Giorgio Armani Fall/Winter 2023 collection. 

Within the walls of Via Borgonuovo 21, guests were invited to the basement theatre. To create a laidback setting for socialising and sleepover parties, the room was decked out in sofa cushions. Featuring a fluid yet sublime silhouette, silky dresses and co-ords were reminiscent of evening wear. From matching pyjama sets to nighties, there’s a noticeable sense of idleness in the collection.

It was a rare moment for Armani, but we spotted some athleisure trousers with drawstrings and stretchy waistbands. Yet in the classic Giorgio Armani way, it was paired with well-tailored and form-fitted suits.

Named the “Cipria”, an Italian term for face powder, the defining key is the choice of colour palette. Not only did the show close with a model powdering her face as she walked out in a panelled and sequined black dress, but Giorgio Armani also painted the whole collection in various shades of earthy neutrals like champagne, cappuccino, or rosé, inspired by Armani’s powder and foundation. There were strokes of black to mimic the kajal and eyeliner as well as mandarin or pink with different undertones as the swatches of face blushes. 

To replicate the texture of makeup finishes, Giorgio Armani plays with various materials and textures that recall either a dewy or velvety finish. It’s not often you find the perfect piece that falls gently with the right length and fluidity that envelopes the frame but as per the show note, “follow the body and its movements” pieces like fringe-trimmed shawls or kaftan and furry gilets reflect the gesture of putting on makeup, like soft caresses on our skin. The juxtaposition of hefty velvet and the light and flowy material creates a harmonious contrast.

At this point, the floral pattern is a signature of the house and it’s only reasonable for them to be found, in what seems like hand-sketched, embroidered in the garments to add graceful touches. Together with the fringe, the shimmering glitter, and the body-hugging elegance, we can visual a flapper from the 1920s in all 74 looks.

Literally a cherry on top, the beret made a frequent appearance throughout the show. Some with dangling beads, some with patch-like ornaments and some in shapes that resembled a cloche hat. The headdresses add a hint of allure and mystery, like peeking behind the velvet curtain, suggesting intimacy as an antidote to a moment of theatrical excess. Zoom in on the hands—the wrists specifically—the art deco inspired bangles is a nostalgia touch but that is not the only element that walks us down the time capsule, a new model of the emblematic La Prima bag—a reinterpretation of Mr. Armani’s notable design from 1995—made an appearance, too.