Women’s fashion is frequently defined and framed through a restrictive archetype. There’s a certain silhouette or even a specific colour reserved for women from different phases, ages, or professions. Yet, this framing starkly contrasts with the vibrant and complex reality of womanhood, which is inherently multidimensional and personal. For Chinese designer Yirantian Guo, the goal was never to “craft a stereotypical image of an attractive woman but rather, to support them in discovering the best expression tailored for them.”
Based in Shanghai, YIRANTIAN is the eponymous fashion label founded by Guo in 2014, after completing her Degree in Womenswear Design at the London College of Fashion. In recent times, China—Shanghai in particular—have risen to become a fashion capital in Asia or even on a worldwide scale. However, it wasn’t the case a decade ago. The highly competitive setting was a huge challenge for independent designers and even more so for emerging talents to grapple with. A staple at Shanghai Fashion Week now, the brand pulled through difficult times and stood out with its meticulous craftsmanship. In an era where fashion screams, Guo enunciates. Its core identity in representing all women regardless of background and profession has been established since day one.
From the Fall 2024 courtroom to her Spring 2025 collection inspired by flamenco dancer Carmen Amaya, the women at YIRANTIAN come from all walks of life. One thing they have in common, however, is how they embraced and enjoy womanhood to the fullest. Refined but dauntless, gentle but potent; there’s a sense of liveliness in her design that strikes a chord. That, of course, also includes the latest Fall 2025 collection, titled “Cipher”, which served as an emotional log for a female secret agent. Despite being the pie in the sky—we all dreamt of being a secret agent at some point in our lives—it’s one of the few at the Shanghai Fashion Week showcase that resonates with us the most. It did not come as a surprise, as according to Guo, the lineup was made to “mirror how womanhood itself is both a riddle and the solution”, a constant tug of war that many of us women cohabit with.
Ahead, we spoke to Guo about how a female designer creates a wardrobe for the woman who is multifaceted and well-lived.
Can you tell us a bit about your background? Has fashion always been something you envisioned yourself doing?
I started YIRANTIAN after I completed my studies at the London College of Fashion in 2014. The idea of joining the fashion industry never actually crossed my mind before going to a fashion school, but I started the journey out of passion, and now that my brand has been around for a decade, it’s been a great journey.
Many describe YIRANTIAN as “a wardrobe for the urban woman”. How would you describe YIRANTIAN?
Portraying “Urban Women” across diverse professional settings is something we at YIRANTIAN have been doing for the past years, and I’m grateful that this vision resonates with everyone. The YIRANTIAN woman embodies profound emotions, a powerful blend of sensibility and strength. She is clear-headed and values the quality of her life, keeping herself from chasing after fleeting trends mindlessly, yet remains remarkably open to new experiences. She is both sensual and intellectual.
You released two collections for Yirantian in 2025: “Clap” and “Cipher”. Both are distinct style-wise, but highlight how garments move—or even dance—with the wearer. Was that intentional since you, too, are a dancer?
Regardless of the theme, I have always wanted my work to reflect how garments are not static objects—they come alive with the wearer’s movement. As for dancing, I tend to incorporate that element into my designs because it’s tied to my personal experience, and it allows a deeper resonance.
Let’s talk about your last collection, “Cipher”. How did you come up with the theme? How do you translate “female power” through the design?
“Cipher” draws inspiration from female secret agents. This is a profession that requires one to be calm, self-possessed, yet radiates inner strength and an irresistible allure. It mirrors how womanhood itself is both a riddle and the solution.
Through the designs, I wanted to convey a multifaceted power that one embodies—where sensuality and boldness coexist, tender yet composed. Sharp lines and structured forms were heavily used in my designs; a broad-shouldered suit jacket, for instance. Cool-toned greys and blues, along with stiff materials such as leather, on the other hand, contrast with the draped inner base and the shirts layered, depicting the “decoding while on the move” concept a secret agency is often associated with.
From the tactile imagery to colour selections, each of these elements reflects an aspect of “her”: grey symbolises composure, blue for intellect, while the warmth from the wool echoes the instincts, and leather evokes a sense of identity and power. Closing the chapter with the colour red and fur was intentional, to unleash the boldness and the desires restrained.
Your designs have a strong emphasis on the endless possibilities a woman has. While women are more emancipated now, the discussion of women and their freedom in dressing is ongoing. What are your thoughts on this?
I think while women now enjoy greater freedom in dressing, the echoing voices on “how should one dress” persist—subtler and more insidious than before. Our aim is not to debate what’s right or wrong, but rather, we expand the spectrum of choice in dressing.
Bold, sharp-witted, potent and captivating, these are the keywords that the brand is surrounded with. Through the designs, we seek not to set standards but to open up possibilities for women. For YIRANTIAN, we are not crafting a stereotypical image of an attractive woman but rather, supporting them in discovering the best expression tailored for them.
Looking back, what was your biggest challenge?
The biggest challenge lies in the constant shifts in the market. As social and economic landscapes evolve, each generation of consumers comes with a new set of preferences. Navigating these changes while preserving the brand’s identity remains one of our most significant tests.
A lot has changed for YIRANTIAN as you grow as a brand and as a fashion designer. What is one thing that you are still holding firmly onto and would never trade for anything?
Compromising has no place in the growth of my brand. Growth demands changes, and every evolution, to me, is fresh and kaleidoscopic. What remains constant in this journey is my commitment to never stop exploring this ever-shifting landscape for those who believe in us.
Lastly, for the upcoming SS26, what can we expect from YIRANTIAN?
We’ll continue to explore the multidimensional identities of intellectual urban women—stay tuned!
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