It all started with the Clean Girl aesthetic. Suddenly, even those who heretofore wouldn’t dare leave the house without a full face were leaning into lip balm and a dab of moisturizer. Blame TikTok.
Then Pamela Anderson, she of the sharply pencilled brows, over-lined lips and heavy foundation, hit Paris Fashion Week sans makeup. Sitting in an unstructured floral frock front row at Victoria Beckham’s Spring 2024 show, the Baywatch alum’s decision to go completely bare broke the internet.
The less-is-more vibe blurred into awards season. At the Golden Globes, Hunter Schafer accessorized a wispy, blush Prada gown with subtle washes of watercolour pink on her lips and cheeks. Ayo Edebiri teamed full brows with neutral hues. Margot Robbie, arguably the star of the season, put a fresh spin on Hollywood glam by pairing a glossy rosewood pout with sheer bronzer that let her skin shine through. There was nary a statement red lip in sight.
By couture, the message was clear — crystal clear. At Schiaparelli, creative director Daniel Roseberry sent models down the runway sporting next-level luminosity and barely any other colour on the face. Maquillage genius Pat McGrath took it a step further for Maison Margiela, transforming the catwalk into a house of dolls, with skin that could pass for actual porcelain. There was such a frenzy over the look, that she took to Instagram in the following days to teach a master class.
For Dior, Peter Philips, the Dior Makeup’s creative and image director, offset cool-girl black kohl eyeliner with softly glowing, uniform skin for a look that’s effortlessly chic without being overly precious. He used the brand’s Forever Glow foundation formula without additional highlighting or contouring, but for us mere mortals, customizing the complexion is key to getting that preternatural, heightened radiance. Matte shimmer may sound like an oxymoron, but the layering of textures creates this illusion of dewy skin without appearing overly shiny.
To the guesswork out of maximizing glow, Philips created two new companions to the Dior Forever Glow line, so one can enhance the foundation, which has a “second skin, buttery finish,” he says. The Glow Star Filter’s 10 shades are laced with pearl essence to impart a hint of sheen and imperceptible brightness — think: the Paris filter IRL.
How and where it’s applied can be fine-tuned to the occasion. “You can wear it under foundation as a primer kind of thing,” Philips advises. Or add a drop of the subtly shimmering tint to makeup to boost glow. “To help sculpt the face, apply strategically to the parts where you want to add shine,” says the guru. Goof-proof spots: high points like cheekbones, brow bones, across the bridge of your nose and the cupid’s bow above the top lip.
For an even more intense sparkle, the second piece in the line — Glow Maximizers — comes in six higher-pigmented shades like pink and peach to add colour. The formula “is nice on the cheeks or even on your eyelids,” explains Philips, who recommends dabbing on lids before the shadow to boost luminosity, which heightens the overall glow.
How you choose to customize the look dictates the application technique. For strategically placed shimmer, the best applicator to use is your fingers; body heat will help melt the product into your skin. Blending with a small brush advises Philips, marries the edges of varying textures seamlessly. Finally, sweep a bit of bronzing powder along the sides of the face “to frame your glow,” says the pro.
Of course, as with all good things, there is a caveat: Light-reflective pigments can act like a spotlight, drawing attention to that which you may prefer to hide, so avoid applying shimmer near blemishes or scars. For these areas, use a sponge to press on a touch of matte powder. But resist the urge to use it all over to avoid a flat finish. “With a matte finish, it’s like a painting,” Philips says. “Once you get a bit more mature and you start getting some lines, you want to have a more easygoing look,” he explains.
Perhaps the best thing about this trend is that it isn’t really a trend at all. The look is infinitely wearable and, at the end of the day, is less about makeup than it is about recreating that fresh, healthy vibe — that elusive you-only-better golden ring — that projects instant confidence.
“And that’s why I think glow will always stay,” exclaims Philips.
This story originally appeared on GRAZIA International.