A fitting tribute from Andreas Kronthaler
A model presents a creation by designer Andreas Kronthaler as part of his Fall-Winter 2023/2024 Women’s ready-to-wear collection show for late designer Vivienne Westwood’s namesake label during Paris Fashion Week in Paris, France March 4, 2023. REUTERS/Sarah Meyssonnier

Andreas Kronthaler is still experiencing an overwhelming grief after the recent death of his wife and collaborator, Vivienne Westwood.  For the Vivienne Westwood collection, Andreas sees his work as a personal tribute to his late wife. It’s also a testament to their collaborative process as Westwood has entrusted Kronthaler to take over the reins of the collection and continue their work together. While her presence will be missed, it’s clear that her legacy will continue through the work of Kronthaler and the ongoing success of the Westwood label.

The designer made a conscious effort to use deadstock fabric and repurpose old materials in the collection aligning with Westwood’s advocacy for sustainable and ethical fashion, as well as her belief in buying less and choosing well. The process of using up old materials was cathartic allowing Kronthaler to let go of some possessions while honoring Westwood’s legacy in a meaningful way.

The towering platform shoes with buckles up the shins have become an iconic hallmark of Westwood’s designs, and Kronthaler decided to take them to even greater heights in this collection. By updating the mini-crinoline skirts to midi-length and adding ruched stockings under tweed knickers, Kronthaler has breathed new life into these iconic Westwood pieces. The use of black tulle to wrap around the boned corsets added a touch of edginess and drama to the collection, as do the spiked tin dog collars. Orchestral and AC/DC music echoed, focusing on Westwood’s influences.

The makeup in this collection was an homage to Vivienne Westwood’s past collaborations and signature styles. Thin strips of red eyeliner, offered a subtle yet impactful touch to the models’ overall appearance. Some models sported stripes as worn by Adam Ant, who was one of Westwood’s early collaborators.

The show featured plenty of provocative designs, including bottoms, nipples, and boys in dresses. For the closing look, a micro-length “wedding gown” worn by Westwood’s granddaughter Cora Corré, paid a fitting tribute to the designer’s legacy and her ongoing influence on the world of fashion.