Who would’ve thought that a simple event invitation could spark a legacy lasting over a hundred years? That’s exactly what happened at Cartier. What began as a commissioned illustration has turned into one of the most iconic symbols in the world of jewellery—the panther.
It all began in 1914 when Louis Cartier, grandson of the brand’s founder, asked illustrator George Barbier to design an image titled Lady with a Panther for a jewellery exhibition invitation. That same year, the panther’s now-famous spotted motif made its first 3D appearance: onyx and diamonds forming the pattern on a woman’s wristwatch. If you’re wondering, at Cartier, the panther symbol isn’t just the sleek black one you might imagine—it also includes the leopard, both part of the Panthera genus.
While Louis Cartier played a role in introducing the panther into Cartier’s design language, it was Jeanne Toussaint—Cartier’s first female Creative Director in 1933—who gave the feline its roar. Known for her forward-thinking style and sharp eye, Toussaint became enamoured with panthers after a trip to Africa, a fascination that would stay with her and shape much of her creative direction. Toussaint was soon nicknamed La Panthère—a nod not only to her signature design motif but also to her bold personality and decisive leadership. Though she had no formal design training, her taste and instinct were second to none. Collaborating closely with Cartier’s head designer Charles Jacqueau, who had been brought into the fold by Louis Cartier himself, Toussaint transformed the panther from a decorative detail into a defining emblem of the maison that’s safe to say, unforgettable.
Over the years, this majestic feline has shared plenty of memorable moments with the Maison. Even now, whether you spot the Cartier panther in fine jewellery, timepieces, accessories, or the high jewellery collections, she never appears quite the same each time.
When a design is successful, it often only requires a careful update rather than a complete redesign. Take the 1935 ring for instance. It features a star ruby at its centre and two panthers crafted from black enamel and yellow gold. For the first time, the panther was shown in three dimensions—not merely as a decorative element, but as a complete figure with personality and presence. By 2025, the Panthère ring has evolved into a more elegant, modern design. It is slimmer and a little more contemporary, but still very much carries the Cartier design. It hasn’t altered much, according to some, but that’s part of its allure.
The Panthère de Cartier continues to evolve, showing up in the Maison’s latest jewellery collection with two striking panthers positioned face to face. With sharp eyes and sculpted detail, they reflect Cartier’s naturalistic style while keeping things clean and modern. The designs—featuring a torque necklace, bangle bracelet, and rings—are flexible and sit close to the body. A clever mechanism using gold blades and tiny springs hidden in the panthers’ heads allows the pieces to move fluidly. Each spot is carefully placed, either in black lacquer on yellow gold or as onyx and diamonds on white gold.
Of course, the house hasn’t stood still. In 1983, Cartier introduced the Panthère de Cartier watch. Inspired by the way the panther moves, the bracelet wraps the wrist with sleek confidence. Now, decades later, it’s the go-to timepiece for fashion’s cool crowd—spotted on the wrists of ‘It’ girls around the world.
The panther also takes centre stage in Cartier’s watchmaking. For the Panthère Jewellery watch, the panther is caught mid-movement, lifting a paw as if pausing time itself. Each spot is hand-finished and set at different angles for a lifelike effect, while the La Panthère de Cartier watch collection is sculptural, confident, and gripping the dial with a gold ring. Available in yellow or rose gold, with diamond-set options, these sculptural watches feature the panther gripping the dial, her form complete with pointed ears, a defined nose, and piercing green eyes.
More than a century on, the panther still prowls through Cartier’s collections, proving that true icons don’t fade. Every new creation is a reminder that the panther is more than a passing trend. The panther stands for elegance and timeless strength, encouraging you to bring your authentic self.
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