If jewellery had a personality, FRED’s latest High Jewellery collection would be that effortlessly glamorous guest at the party—the one who catches the light just right, and always knows how to make an entrance. Aptly named The Sunshine Jeweler’s First Light, the radiant new offering is split into two chapters: 1936 and Soleil d’Or Sunrise—a sparkling tribute to joy and the pleasure of living beautifully. To understand how this Maison came about, we’ll have to look back at its origins.
Fred Samuel was only 28 when he opened his first boutique on Rue Royale in 1936, but he already had a clear vision: to forget “safe”, stuffy jewellery locked away and only used for special occasions. He wanted movement, colour, and freedom. Jewellery that danced in the sunlight, lived for the Riviera, and felt just as right at a candlelit dinner as it did on a boat deck.
Born into a family of gemstone dealers, Samuel was captivated early on by the glow of coloured stones under the Argentine sun. Later, trained by renowned pearl merchants in Paris, he developed a passion for cultured pearls and was constantly inspired by light, sunlight in particular.
Chapter One: 1936
The 1936 chapter takes its cue from the very beginning, with crisp lines, bold structures, and a fresh spin on Art Deco. The key motif here are the arches, shimmering architectural curves.
One necklace, for instance, features a Colombian emerald from the legendary Muzo mines, nestled in a striking upturned arch. Matching earrings and a bold ring complete the look, all tied together with that distinctive arch detail. Elsewhere, Sri Lankan sapphires steal the show with deep, velvety blues paired with an elegant cascade of diamonds.
And then there’s the ruby set: saturated Pigeon Blood red from Mozambique, set into supple chokers and show-stopping rings. The fire is real. Add to that a pearl necklace strung with softly tinted Akoya pearls—a nod to Samuel’s early days and still as chic as ever.
Chapter Two: Soleil d’Or Sunrise
Where 1936 leans into drama and structure, Soleil d’Or Sunrise is all warmth and flow. From the very beginning, light has been at the heart of FRED. This fascination reached a new height in 1977, when the Maison encountered an extraordinary yellow diamond weighing over 100 carats. Its golden hue was so vivid, it looked as though it had captured the sun itself. Naturally, it was given a name to match: Soleil d’Or. The diamond became a symbol of the house, and after being welcomed back into the archives in 2021, it continues to influence the creative direction of the brand.
Channelling the soft glow of early morning light, a bib necklace catches the eye with its mix of grain-set yellow diamonds and claw-set white stones. The strands fall gently along the collarbone, leading to a standout centrepiece: a 2-carat diamond in a striking Fancy Intense Yellow—a quiet nod to the iconic Soleil d’Or.
Nearly 90 years since Fred Samuel first opened his doors, FRED continues to light up the room with structured jewellery that still finds movement. Whether it’s the sharp geometry of 1936 or the golden softness of Soleil d’Or Sunrise, every piece captures something of Samuel’s original spirit: joy, colour, and a glow of something that’s always meant to be worn.
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