A particularly hectic few weeks have finally drawn to a close in Milan. After welcoming the world’s most elite athletes to the Winter Olympics, the city’s attention turned to the fashion set: arguably better-dressed, but no less ruthless in their approach. After a headline-stealing, boundary-breaking runway debut from Demna; quietly luxurious collections by Max Mara, Tod’s, and Dolce & Gabbana; and a street style celebration at Onitsuka Tiger, Milan Fashion Week has finally reached its end. As the dust settles—and before it’s whipped up into a frenzy again in Paris next week—take a look ahead at our roundup of the standout moments from the Fall/Winter 2026 runways in Milan.
Dolce & Gabbana
Many a designer sees a runway show as an opportunity to break boundaries and rewrite style codes—ahem, Demna—but occasionally, the most interesting statements are those which reaffirm tradition. For Fall/Winter 2026, Dolce & Gabbana did just that, celebrating their heritage in a show fittingly titled Identity. The identity in question is a sensual yet strong celebration of Sicilian style, culminating in a series of figure-hugging black-lace looks that seem plucked from a Monica Bellucci film. Aside from lace, which was honoured and reworked in myriad ways, notable motifs included classically Dolce oversized jackets, tiered skirts and dresses, and crisp white shirts peeking out from tailored blazers. If anyone needs us, we’ll be in our Malena era, thanks to Messrs. Dolce and Gabbana.
Tod’s
Season after season, Tod’s makes the case for quiet luxury even after the TikTok set has moved on to more viral pastures. Artisanship and luxe fabrics are the brand’s defining qualities, and the outerwear and layering codes of the Fall/Winter season truly let them shine. This season’s approach came with a typically restrained palette of cream, rich brown, and the occasional pop of mustard yellow or ochre. Asymmetric tailoring and graphic patchwork patterns added offbeat touches, particularly in a series of high-necked foulard dresses. Pashmy, a silky leather-and-suede fabric that is a Tod’s signature, was heavily featured in skirts, trousers, and outerwear—as for the outerwear in question, it seems like the capelet is having a moment. After being spotted on runways like Ralph Lauren and Max Mara this season, Tod’s put their own spin on the insouciantly draped garment in fur and cashmere.
Gucci
By now, you’ve probably already seen Emily Ratajkowski’s sultry, stumbling walk down the Gucci runway in a shimmering, skintight minidress. If not that, then perhaps UK rapper Fakemink’s appearance in low-slung trousers and a crossbody bag, or supermodel Kate Moss closing the show in a backless gown exposing a bedazzled thong. Demna’s runway debut for Gucci was a spectacle for the digital age, and we can’t say we’re surprised. To quote the modern philosophers Katseye: haven’t you heard? He’s an Internet girl. Demna’s ability to steal headlines and create a barrage of viral moments is as strong as ever—but importantly, there was also a clear style sensibility and vision underpinning the collection.
Demna’s Gucci is unapologetically sensual, with echoes of the Tom Ford era in its skintight fabrics and spare silhouettes. Leather was a mainstay: it was seen on knee-high boots, draped jackets, and tops that clung so tightly to sculpted muscles that they seemed like a satirisation of modern masculinity. Demna relies heavily on style archetypes to communicate his vision, an approach he introduced last year through his La Famiglia portraits. That collection skewed more campy, whereas his Fall/Winter 2026 runway archetypes felt lifted out of a Gen Z haunt in 2026: the party girl, the internet rapper, the androgynous club kid. He seemed less concerned with how the style intelligentsia thinks people should wear luxury than with how it’s actually worn on the streets. It was a bold debut, drawing a wave of incensed reactions from critics and fans alike. If you were expecting that to faze Demna, though, you’ll be disappointed. His “overall vision for Gucci“, the collection notes state, is built around “a sense of pragmatism: products that can be enjoyed by a variety of people… that can stand on their own, without the need for pseudo-intellectual justifications.” So, without further ado, pseudo-intellectual or otherwise, take a look at the collection’s most striking looks below.
Max Mara
Retro revivals aren’t an uncommon sight on a runway, but you’d be hard-pressed to find anyone going further back in time for inspiration than Max Mara this season. For their Fall/Winter 2026 presentation, the brand continued a time-honoured tradition of honouring a powerful and historic female figure. This season’s inspiration came from Matilde di Canossa, a medieval diplomat, military commander, patron of the arts, and—as the collection statement put it—”a feminist before the word even existed”. As for how Max Mara interpreted medieval-era power dressing, it was through their usual blend of precise tailoring with fine fabrics. Medieval influences in high fashion usually come with chainmail and silver, but Max Mara’s take was entirely more subtle. A camel coat came with wide sleeves and a neck clasp reminiscent of a monk’s robes, while the rich but restrained palette of grey, brown and burgundy gave the collection an air of nobility. The season’s silhouettes were also surprisingly soft, proving that even armour doesn’t have to forgo femininity—think cashmere maxi dresses pooling at the floor, softly draped capelets, and hooded coats.
Onitsuka Tiger
A large part of Onitsuka Tiger’s recent resurgence among Gen Z can be credited to their revival of a retro-cool, minimalist Japanese street style from which they rarely stray. For their Fall/Winter 2026 presentation at Milan Fashion Week, though, they made a slight pivot, showing us a preppier, funkier facet of these same style codes. This wasn’t aloof Tokyo minimalism in black separates, but a flirtier, more fun take you’d be more likely to see on Kyoto streets. Formalwear and streetwear met in looks that combined crisp pleats with high-top sneakers and floral patterns. A feminine flair was visible throughout, even in menswear looks, owing to neat bows and rows of ruffles. The palette was similarly surprising, more likely to feature pops of apple green and bubblegum pink than classic Onitsuka Tiger yellow. On the sneaker front, the brand debuted a slimmer, flatter version of their famed Mexico 66 silhouette, with the lizard-printed leather varieties looking especially eye-catching.
This story first appeared on GRAZIA Singapore.
READ MORE