COS has long operated within a vocabulary of minimalism: precise, intellectual and self-assured. But this season in Seoul, that lexicon was subtly recalibrated, stretched into something more tactile, more instinctive, and almost unexpectedly, more sensual.
In a brutalist-inspired space that used to be a men’s spa, abandoned pools set the stage for the Spring/Summer 2026 runway. Accompanied by the sounds of the bustling Seoul subway, models graced the runway in an array of daring looks that transformed perceptions of the brand. Sheer lace dresses and tops that skimmed rather than clung (a number of models appeared bare), bandeau minis that felt reductive rather than provocative, and silk pieces cut low at the back, exposing skin. But it wasn’t really about being “sexy” in any obvious or vulgar sense, more about exploring sensuality through the lens of control and restraint. Even ribbed silk micro shorts, arguably the collection’s most surprising gesture, were anchored by the brand’s rigorous sense of balance, styled with a slightly oversized jacket.
That discipline remained the collection’s backbone. An asymmetric pleated silk gown moved with liquid precision, its fluidity lending softness to an otherwise controlled silhouette, while a rounded, textured silk shirt subtly reworked volume with confidence. In contrast, an oversized leather funnel-neck bomber, styled without anything beneath, introduced a sharper, more assertive edge. The palette stayed resolutely grounded, greys dissolving into mocha and cocoa, lifted by muted thyme and the occasional, deliberate shade of burgundy, allowing the focus to remain on construction and materiality.
COS Design Director, Karin Gustafsson showcased a balance of ’80s and ’90s nostalgia through strong tailoring and softened through fluid fabrics and controlled draping. Trompe l’oeil denim, reimagined in silk, introduces a knowing twist on set dressing; meanwhile refined shirts that strike that balance between precision and ease that COS does so well.
Elsewhere, material play is kept intentional and outerwear is elongated into more sculptural proportions. The looks are anchored by elevated essentials: think supple leather plimsolls, architectural mules and tactile bags, bringing a polished finish that feels both modern and wearable.
Across 40 looks, COS has created a collection that feels less rigid and more assured, yet still resonates with elegance, innovation, and a captivating sense of sensuality.
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