In a world marked by a constant ebb and flow of desirable aesthetics and coveted trends, it takes genuine savoir-faire to stand out amongst the sea of dernier cri.
For jewellery luxuriate Tiffany & Co. this inimitable know-how is the touchstone of their archives, with the brand diving deep into the waters of their rich heritage and lavish legacy for the latest iteration of their masterful high-jewellery Blue Book collection.
This year, Tiffany & Co. turned their attention to the bijoux pioneering and trailblazing Frenchman, Jean Schlumberger and his avant-garde and aquamarine fixation with aquatic life.
The most recent Blue Book expression is aptly titled ‘Out Of The Blue’, which is explored in both a literal and figurative sense as Tiffany & Co’s chief artistic officer of jewellery and high jewellery, Nathalie Verdeille, dips below the jewellery Maison’s robin-egg blue facade and dives into the deep sea world of infinite influence—an enigmatic marine wonder that captivated and entranced Schlumberger, propelling him, like a siren to a sailor, to forge some of the most breathtaking and superlative creations of the 20th Century.
“In Jean Schlumberger’s imagination and design philosophy, the sea represented an unknown, infinite world. He choreographed unparalleled manifestations of its majesty and mystery,” Verdeille says of Schlumberger’s impressive high jewellery creations.
“With Blue Book 2023, we saw an opportunity to honour Jean Schlumberger’s legacy by giving new life to some of his most celebrated designs,” Tiffany & Co’s chief executive officer, Anthony Ledru, also notes.
“These creations have a distinct Schlumberger quality and personality to them, but the designs are all new. We are certain that he would have been as pleased with each masterpiece as we are.”
Indeed, while Verdeille’s vividly glistening oceanic rings, necklaces and brooches draw inspiration from Schlumberger expressive visual language, the dazzling array of artisan-inspired sculptures are completely original.
In fact, this expansive collection, which explores seven distinct submarine themes— shell, coral, jellyfish, Pisces, starfish, sea star and star urchin—is a contemporary reinvention of Schlumberger’s glistering methodology.
The pieces of wearable art range from more surrealist expressions of these sea motifs, to ornate replications of these underwater creatures. To convey the shell, Tiffany & Co. has designed a stunning transformable pendant, boasting a detachable diamond brooch that reveals a black opal of over 21 carats.
Tanzanites, sapphires and yellow diamonds dance in geometric and stylised shapes that emulate the protruding vibrant coral. The starfish, sea star and sea urchin are powerfully dramatic, with sweeping tanzanites and hand-carved chalcedony that emulates a spiky exterior.
Amongst this melange of precious gemstones lies one of the most striking pieces in the collection, an anatomically-inspired jellyfish brooch. Comprised of ornate gilded tentacles, bold silver metals, diamond detailing and three mesmerising pearlescent accents that radiate like suns rays on the horizon, this piece captivates the motion of the tide in a singular figure.
A design that builds on from Schlumberger’s own 1967 Jellyfish brooch, which he designed for American horticulturist and socialite Bunny Melon after she was stung swimming in Antigua and Barbuda.
The precious creations will be unveiled in the coming weeks at the dedicated high jewellery floor at Tiffany & Co’s new palatial 5th Avenue boutique, aptly coined ‘The Landmark’. The Maison will celebrate with a soirée, hosting a melange of high-profile guests for the occasion, bringing the stars and the sea together for a New York minute.
This story first appeared on GRAZIA International.