Spring/Summer 2026 (this September) is the season when the fashion industry hits the big red reset button. The Grand Debut kicked off with Jonathan Anderson’s much-discussed debut for Dior on the Mens SS26 in Paris, serving as the curtain-riser with more than a billion views on social media, as reported by WWD. At the same time, the fashion sphere is also experiencing a state of frenzy following the debut collection by Michael Rider at Celine last weekend. The reactions towards these changes were mixed—many questions were raised.
Is the current fashion state gearing towards Anderson—the critical darling—or are we yearning for a low-profile designer like Rider? Are the existing clientele a fan of these changes? Will they take the throne as the saviour of the brands amid inflation? And ultimately, are these creative directors the perfect fit?
As we inch towards the Haute Couture and fashion weeks, this is merely the beginning of the whirl. The changing of the guard is not over yet. From red carpet doyens like Pierpaolo Piccioli taking over Balenciaga to the crème de la crème Matthieu Blazy at Chanel; the young emerging designer Duran Lantink as the first-ever (permanent) creative lead at Jean Paul Gaultier, to the Proenza Schouler duo at Loewe. The grand debut starts now.
Glenn Martens for Maison Margiela Artisanal 2025
Not for 2026, but a Haute Couture debut is what we would expect from both Maison Margiela and Glenn Martens. This will mark the French house’s return to couture since the phenomenal Artisanal 2024. Under Pont Alexandre III, the then-creative director John Galliano staged what was deemed one of the greatest couture shows of our times—the porcelain doll makeup conceived by Pat McGrath, too, went viral.
Glenn Martens is a breakout star to look out for. Entering the Margiela realm with eleven years of experience at the subversive brand Y/Project and a successful revamp at Diesel—reconnecting Gen Z with the denim mastery—Glenn Martens made a name as an avant-garde designer with a cult-following. His technical prowess in couture was solidified by his work as a guest couturier at Jean Paul Gaultier, where he reinterpreted JPG’s former work through a fresh perspective, giving us a side of Martens that’s delighted to witness. Not only does his design voice align with Margiela’s house code, but his artistry will also be something we have on our list to watch.
Pierpaolo Piccioli for Balenciaga
Pierpaolo Piccioli needs no introduction—he literally has a colour, the Pink PP, named after him at Valentino. The much-speculated appointment was made following the departure of the former creative director, Demna, who is leaving to join Gucci. His tenure at the storied fashion house has been controversial. Piccioli, on the other hand, is known for his poetic approach—from the all-pink Fall/Winter 2022 to the all-black Fall/Winter 2024—his deft in colours and structural designs brings to mind the founding designer Cristóbal Balenciaga. This is a huge shift for the luxury brand—from shock value to romance.
What Piccioli has under his sleeves is more than his impressive portfolio—accessories designer at Fendi and Valentino before being appointed as the creative director at the latter. Piccioli’s Valentino has the red carpet magic that is favoured by the cameras and celebrities, including Rihanna, Zendaya, Pedro Pascal and Lady Gaga, just to name a few. His skill as a couturier, too, has been nothing less than monumental, from the Fall Couture 2018—ended with a standing ovation—to the Fall Couture 2023, which showcased the blueprint of a modern take in high fashion. Piccioli has the capability—just as much as his predecessor has—in continuing the internet virality through his idiosyncratic emotional language.
Louise Trotter for Bottega Veneta
Bottega Veneta is having a cultural resurgence—coinciding with the increased preference for timeless investment amid the economic turbulence. Even without an online presence, the branding never ceases to exist. Exceptional worldbuilding presented through showstopping campaigns, immersive runway experiences that include internet-breaking show invitations or tailor-made lounge chairs are the cherry on top that highlights the craftsmanship the fashion house takes pride in.
Succeeding Matthieu Blazy is Louis Trotter, a British designer armed with experience at Calvin Klein, Joseph, Lacoste, Carven and high street roots such as Gap. The diverse background makes her a good fit to inherit a house that excels in balancing crafts and a worldwide following. At the Cannes Film Festival in May, we got a first look at Trotter’s Bottega Veneta on the red carpet, as seen on Julianne Moore and Vicky Krieps. It’s quite apparent that Trotter has a gentler approach while keeping the legacy of the brand alive—Krieps’ top arrived with the unmistakable Intrecciato leather weave. Not forgetting the recent crowd favourite “Craft is Our Language” campaign—featuring human hands with movement that mimics the weave—to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the Inrecciato. These sneak peeks encapsulated Trotter’s vision, and what’s more, as the only female creative director of a Kering-owned brand—a rare case in the current landscape—all eyes are fixated on the upcoming show.
Matthieu Blazy for Chanel
The seat at Chanel was deemed one of the most coveted roles in the fashion maelstrom and was left empty for half a year after Virginie Viard’s departure. The appointment of Matthieu Blazy comes as no surprise.
Blazy—previously held senior roles at Maison Margiela, Celine (under Phoebe Philo) and Calvin Klein—is an insider favourite. His three-year tenure at Bottega Veneta is solid proof of his ability to balance between achieving commercial success without losing the essence of its traditional Italian heritage. His work is highly defined by his reverence for craftsmanship, especially in revolutionary material innovation. The denim look—crafted from leather—for his sophomore collection, for instance, showcased his aptitude in pushing boundaries, something that a storied megabrand like Chanel would need. The way Blazy presents sophistication calls for appreciation of quality and subtlety, aligning with Chanel’s existing clientele and timeless appeal. For Chanel to maintain its position at the pinnacle of cultural relevance, it’s crucial to have a creative lead who can generate immense buzz, which Blazy is perfectly capable of re-establishing Bottega Veneta through brilliant storytelling, even without an online presence.
Duran Lantink for Jean Paul Gaultier
Fearless, provocative and showmanship are some of the words associated with the l’enfant terrible of couture, Jean Paul Gaultier—his first couture “Salon Atmosphere” in 1997 was a critical success. After his retirement in 2020, the eponymous fashion house has adopted a rotating designer model, enlisting guest designers such as Chitose Abe, Olivier Rousteing, Haider Ackermann and more. Now, the brand has appointed Duran Lantink as the permanent creative director, leading both the ready-to-wear and haute couture collections.
Despite being rather new to the couture domain, Lantink is known for his unconventional and experimental celebrity projects that spotlight sustainability and deconstruction—a radical take that challenges, or even resets today’s luxury sphere. He shares the punk spirit and anti-establishment ethos that the French fashion label is renowned for. What is keeping us on the edge of our chairs is also how Lantink would weave inclusivity and activist-driven performance into Gaultier’s legacy and love for social commentary.
Simone Bellotti for Jil Sander
Taking over the vacant spot at Jil Sander is Simone Bellotti, former creative director of Bally, the 174-year-old Swiss luxury brand. Bellotti’s time with Bally—albeit short-lived—brought the brand back into the limelight, something we’d expect from someone who has worked behind the scenes in prominent houses such as Dolce & Gabbana, Bottega Veneta and Gucci’s menswear.
A poet of refined sensuality, the ability to redefine minimalism is the feather in Bellotti’s cap. The Spring 2024 collection at Bally, for instance, showcased precise tailoring topped with a whimsical twist—pencil skirt with a slanted waistline or the tiny cow bells added as bags’ charms. While keeping the house codes, Belloti added witty updates to freshen up the label. This goes to show that the Italian designer has a flair for weaving history with contemporary touches, making him a fitting successor in Jil Sander.
Jack McCollough & Lazaro Hernandez for Loewe
The news of Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez succeeding Jonathan Anderson came hot on the heels of the visionary duo parting ways with their own label, Proenza Schouler.
With Anderson at the helm, Loewe has claimed its front row seat as one of the hottest brands. The designer has a knack for craft and culture curations—and innovative designs like the balloon and the cracked eggs heel—that the audience would appreciate. Proenza Schouler’s duo, on the other hand, broke into the scene with their senior thesis collection. While they single-handedly founded and managed one of the best New York-based fashion houses, the thought of having them in a heritage house raised a few eyebrows—will they be able to pick up the threads? The change is a drastic shift, but what we know for sure is that the Loewe under the duo will continue to win hearts, including those in Hollywood, with the creations made for a modern wardrobe.
Miguel Castro Freitas for Mugler
It’s refreshing to see more behind-the-scenes talent coming into the spotlight, and Miguel Castro Freitas at Mugler has us bouncing off the walls. As the fourth successor to Thierry Mugler, Castro Freitas cut his teeth at Dior, Yves Saint Laurent, Givenchy, Dries Van Noten, Lanvin, and Sportmax prior to the recent appointment.
Mugler has always been a fashion house celebrated for its otherworldly, experimental and sculptural designs that are boundary-pushing, and the Portuguese-born designer, too, is widely known for his architectural and futuristic approach. Sportmax’s Spring/Summer 2024 collection, for instance, featured silhouettes like corsetted bodysuits, vinyl material or even space-age eyewear that echoes with some of Mugler’s iconic pieces. What’s more? As a dancer—like Mugler himself—Castro Freitas has a strong understanding of body in motion, something that the French fashion pioneered.
Dario Vitale for Versace
In the final quarter of 2024, Miu Miu was named the hottest brand of the year and Dario Vitale, its former design and image director, has recently joined Versace following the departure of Donatella Versace—though honestly, Versace without Donatella is rather hard to picture.
Despite being under the radar, Vitale’s long stint at Miu Miu has contributed tremendously to the success of the brand—not just in retail sales but also in the increased level of consumer interest. As an image director, Vitale is undoubtedly good at branding. After all, Miu Miu has created not one but numerous internet-breaking moments throughout the years, and this will be something Versace would appreciate given the recent plummeting in revenue as reported. The challenge would be to translate this vision into the Versace realm, for the Italian heritage brand has a long-established history of collaborating with pop stars and supermodels, but if done right, it will be a sight for sore eyes.
Demna for Gucci
Demna’s Balenciaga has always been two-sided—you either hate it or love it, but the undisputed fact is that the Georgia-born designer is one of the movers and shakers in the industry. Through his “disruptive” designs, he challenged the conventional notions of beauty and luxury. Though many would describe his work as meme-worthy, it did not change the fact that in this saturated market, it’s rare to see a designer whose work is filled with emotions—mock, provocative, unsettlement and more.
His move from Balenciaga to Gucci—both brands owned by the same parent company, Kering—after a decade was unexpected, yet not unimaginable. One of his most memorable joint projects at Balenciaga was the stratospherically viral “Hacker Project” from the Clones collection with Gucci. Despite being controversial, it’s a golden example of merging house codes. While Demna’s Gucci debut is yet to be announced, especially since the designer will show his last Balenciaga couture collection this July, the anticipation is soaring through the roof.
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